World Class Action! I felt like I should've bought a ticket for the first hour I surfed here. Myself, Big Brian and Vincent just paddled out to the point and watched da local boys
dropping into some bombs right over the rocky shelf on the outside. Wow, what a view from down the line! I waited my turn and kept creeping out in the lineup, hoping to snag just one wave. Even the scraps were world class wave action. I never did get into one and was a bit discouraged as I paddled back towards the middle peak that was barrelling right past "the cave." Picked off small one about where this guy is in the pic and was sitting deep for the bowl. A solid 10' set went by and all the guys were hooting as their braddahs pulled in to Maui pointbreak perfection. I gotta get one of those! Next set I went for it and even called a guy off as I was standing up with the lip and just made it over the steep ledge --- after that was like the Millenium Falcon going into hyperspace, flying just ahead of the curling lip crashing behind me. Whoa, stay low... a big bottom turn past the section, followed by a speed carve off the top and then wwwarp speeeed shooting out safely to the shoulder. I was nearly pissing myself with adrenaline! Oh man, I want another...
Paddled back and sat in the same place as another bomb came right to me. I had been out 2 hours and my arms were fatigued, as I stood up, I was airdropping backside into the pit. She swallowed me up, shot me down, spun me around and finally spit me up way on the inside over by the cave.
I was getting hammered by the rest of the set, but kept scraping to get past the cliff and over to the channel. Then I got flushed in the inside bowl before reaching calm water. I was pooped and had a long paddle around and back in which took me like 20 minutes to reach the rocky shoreline and hike back up the cliff where the boys were waiting. Sounds like Big B got one of the sickest rights of his life as well... another time warp for Chewy!!!
dropping into some bombs right over the rocky shelf on the outside. Wow, what a view from down the line! I waited my turn and kept creeping out in the lineup, hoping to snag just one wave. Even the scraps were world class wave action. I never did get into one and was a bit discouraged as I paddled back towards the middle peak that was barrelling right past "the cave." Picked off small one about where this guy is in the pic and was sitting deep for the bowl. A solid 10' set went by and all the guys were hooting as their braddahs pulled in to Maui pointbreak perfection. I gotta get one of those! Next set I went for it and even called a guy off as I was standing up with the lip and just made it over the steep ledge --- after that was like the Millenium Falcon going into hyperspace, flying just ahead of the curling lip crashing behind me. Whoa, stay low... a big bottom turn past the section, followed by a speed carve off the top and then wwwarp speeeed shooting out safely to the shoulder. I was nearly pissing myself with adrenaline! Oh man, I want another...Paddled back and sat in the same place as another bomb came right to me. I had been out 2 hours and my arms were fatigued, as I stood up, I was airdropping backside into the pit. She swallowed me up, shot me down, spun me around and finally spit me up way on the inside over by the cave.
I was getting hammered by the rest of the set, but kept scraping to get past the cliff and over to the channel. Then I got flushed in the inside bowl before reaching calm water. I was pooped and had a long paddle around and back in which took me like 20 minutes to reach the rocky shoreline and hike back up the cliff where the boys were waiting. Sounds like Big B got one of the sickest rights of his life as well... another time warp for Chewy!!!We load up the car and drive around the NE side of the island with all these crazy steep cliffs and sections of one lane roads through the mountains. Big B was a tad scared, but the beer helped ease the nerves.
Then it was back on the short bus for he and Vincent.
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