Dec 6, 2007
Honolua Bay
World Class Action! I felt like I should've bought a ticket for the first hour I surfed here. Myself, Big Brian and Vincent just paddled out to the point and watched da local boys
dropping into some bombs right over the rocky shelf on the outside. Wow, what a view from down the line! I waited my turn and kept creeping out in the lineup, hoping to snag just one wave. Even the scraps were world class wave action. I never did get into one and was a bit discouraged as I paddled back towards the middle peak that was barrelling right past "the cave." Picked off small one about where this guy is in the pic and was sitting deep for the bowl. A solid 10' set went by and all the guys were hooting as their braddahs pulled in to Maui pointbreak perfection. I gotta get one of those! Next set I went for it and even called a guy off as I was standing up with the lip and just made it over the steep ledge --- after that was like the Millenium Falcon going into hyperspace, flying just ahead of the curling lip crashing behind me. Whoa, stay low... a big bottom turn past the section, followed by a speed carve off the top and then wwwarp speeeed shooting out safely to the shoulder. I was nearly pissing myself with adrenaline! Oh man, I want another...
Paddled back and sat in the same place as another bomb came right to me. I had been out 2 hours and my arms were fatigued, as I stood up, I was airdropping backside into the pit. She swallowed me up, shot me down, spun me around and finally spit me up way on the inside over by the cave.
I was getting hammered by the rest of the set, but kept scraping to get past the cliff and over to the channel. Then I got flushed in the inside bowl before reaching calm water. I was pooped and had a long paddle around and back in which took me like 20 minutes to reach the rocky shoreline and hike back up the cliff where the boys were waiting. Sounds like Big B got one of the sickest rights of his life as well... another time warp for Chewy!!!
dropping into some bombs right over the rocky shelf on the outside. Wow, what a view from down the line! I waited my turn and kept creeping out in the lineup, hoping to snag just one wave. Even the scraps were world class wave action. I never did get into one and was a bit discouraged as I paddled back towards the middle peak that was barrelling right past "the cave." Picked off small one about where this guy is in the pic and was sitting deep for the bowl. A solid 10' set went by and all the guys were hooting as their braddahs pulled in to Maui pointbreak perfection. I gotta get one of those! Next set I went for it and even called a guy off as I was standing up with the lip and just made it over the steep ledge --- after that was like the Millenium Falcon going into hyperspace, flying just ahead of the curling lip crashing behind me. Whoa, stay low... a big bottom turn past the section, followed by a speed carve off the top and then wwwarp speeeed shooting out safely to the shoulder. I was nearly pissing myself with adrenaline! Oh man, I want another...Paddled back and sat in the same place as another bomb came right to me. I had been out 2 hours and my arms were fatigued, as I stood up, I was airdropping backside into the pit. She swallowed me up, shot me down, spun me around and finally spit me up way on the inside over by the cave.
I was getting hammered by the rest of the set, but kept scraping to get past the cliff and over to the channel. Then I got flushed in the inside bowl before reaching calm water. I was pooped and had a long paddle around and back in which took me like 20 minutes to reach the rocky shoreline and hike back up the cliff where the boys were waiting. Sounds like Big B got one of the sickest rights of his life as well... another time warp for Chewy!!!We load up the car and drive around the NE side of the island with all these crazy steep cliffs and sections of one lane roads through the mountains. Big B was a tad scared, but the beer helped ease the nerves.
Then it was back on the short bus for he and Vincent.
Dec 3, 2007
JAWS
Jason, Maria, Lover & Hippy Gordon headed out to Peahi "Jaws" today after checking the surf report this morning. It could be the biggest day of the season so far. Kevin caravaned behind us with Paula, Mike and Milo and we picked up Alyssa along the way, our friend that has hiked the secluded 45 minute red dirt road before. Its been kinda rainy the last couple of days with the Kona winds (south = offshore) and today was no different with grey skies. We were muddy shortly after we started on our trek and bet that first one to fall down, buys the beer. The dogs were running around in circles like chickens with their heads cut off, drinking mud puddle water and loving every minute of it. Only big Hawaiian trucks with 4 wheel drive can make it down the potholed and ruddy red dirt track. Other vehicles have tried and they are still down there, abandoned, flipped over, burned, smashed and crashed. Funny how we all tried to stay clean at first, our feet sludging thru the red mudge. A slip here, a slide there... whoa nelly and kersplat! Mike was down... hahaha beers on you sucka, we all laughed!!! I mean, are you OK bro? "Just my ego bruised a bit" mike gurgled, as Milo went splashing by. Along the way we saw a lot of trash and abandoned cars, guess people use that area as a dumping ground- pretty sad. Come visit Maui, the most beautiful of all the islands. When we finally made it, about 20 people were standing around looking at the big waves, but no surfers or jet skis. The surf was pounding, but a bit too mixed up to tow into "safely." Alyssa showed us the trail that crisscrossed down to the rocky shoreline. Jason took a bassackwards fall and we whipped out our cameras as he lay there like and overturned turtle. After a half hour of watching the waves, we headed back up. Wow, a big set came in and washed over the rocks, just where we were just standing. Good thing Jason told the girls to climb to higher ground! We used the rope this time to climb up straight up the sideslope and were just absolutely filthy as we reached the lookout. We started walking back to our Cherokee in the rain and one local boy stopped and picked us up in his big localboy truck. We all jumped in the back with 2 Germans and held on TIGHT! The ride up was wild, as he sped past the busted old cars, thru the ruts and potholes, bouncing us all along the way. Just before he dropped us off, our localboy topped off the sweet ride with some donuts as the rain was coming down. The fun ride back really added to the whole adventure and a saved us a 30 minute walk. We rinsed a bit in the stream, met up with Mike and Paula and then packed 6 people and 2 filthy wet dobies in the Jeep. What a trip, another day on Maui...
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